Tuesday 10 February 2015

AO2- Equipment Placement in a Studio (Workshop)



Equipment Placement in a Studio - Workshop

The lighting placement within the studio is important to help depict the atmospheric outcome. For example you could choose one point lighting to create a dramatic split in the subject, this would emphasis the contrast between the light and dark aspects within the image. 

 One Point Lighting

This image shows the placement of the camera, subject and lighting equipment. This type of lighting can have the lighting stationed at the front or to either the left or right, while having the camera at the front of the subject. If the light is facing the person from the side it creates more of a bright side on the person while the other side with no light would be full of shadows. 

 One Point Lighting 

This image shows the placement of the camera, subject and lighting equipment but also including a panel to help direct the light into the other side of the subject as well. This way of lighting the subject helps make the image less harsh as the panel would reflect the light onto the subject from the left side as well. 

Two Point Lighting

This image shows the placement of the cameras, subject and lighting equipment. This however has two lights to brighten up either side of the subject while having the camera in front of the subject, this way of lighting the image up would be brighter than the previous as there is more light being pushed upon the person from both sides.

 Three Point Lighting

This image shows the placement of the cameras, subject and lighting equipment. This would help create an even brighter image than the previous types of lighting. This is because the third light would help light up the background of the image and subject as well as the making the lights at the front appear even brighter. 


AO2- Aperture and ISO (Workshop)



Aperture and ISO - Workshop

Aperture is the opening in the lens, it is the size of the hole that opens when you hit the shutter button. The bigger the hole the more light is let back onto the sensor so the higher the aperture, the smaller the hole the less light is let through. The size of the hole is measure by F-stops, this is from low F-stops with a larger opening to a high F-stops with a smaller opening letting light in. 

Depth of field is the space of the image that will be in focus, for example if you have a large depth of field then most of your image will be in focus including the sections close and far away from the camera you are using. When using aperture it effects your depth of field as the larger your aperture the smaller you depth of field, and the smaller you aperture the larger your depth of field. So if you wanted an image that is all in focus you would have to have your aperture setting on, for example, f/32.

Aperture also affects exposure because if you have a high aperture, for example f/5, it has a larger opening to allow the light to high the imaging sensor. This therefore creates a high amount of exposure within the image you are creating. Where as if you had a low aperture, for example f/32, the opening to allow light through is smaller therefore creating a low amount of exposure within the image.

ISO is the measurement of how sensitive the cameras sensor is, so the lower the number of ISO the lower the sensitivity to light. Adjusting the ISO setting higher would  make it more sensitive to light and have a grainier image produced. This would also change the image because it would impact the aperture and shutter speed, it would impact it by allowing you to take photos with a higher shutter speed and smaller apertures.

This can be useful for a variety of different photography applications, such as landscape and portrait. This is because it allows you to completely focus on your subject or object and you can either blur the background out or also focus on the background. In portrait photos it allows you to make the subject completely focused upon, while also making the image bright or darker depending on what you desire from your camera settings. It would especially be useful in landscape photography as using a small aperture setting allows the camera to have a large depth of field, allowing the photographers to capture an image where the whole photo is focused upon. However this can also mean that the image isn't as bright as it could be, this is why landscape photographers tend to have a long shutter speed so that it lets in more light over the time.  

Workshop Task -

For this workshop we were using the different aperture settings and ISO settings on the camera to see what they would do to the image. The camera we used was a Sony DSLR-A290, with the setting on aperture priority. We had the camera set up on a tripod while we took the images we needed.

f/5
1/60sec
ISO-3200
This aperture setting was quite high, however as the shutter speed setting wasn't too high it let in some light but not for too long. ISO setting was also quite high but as we took the image indoors and the lighting wasn't too bright the image has come out with a neutral lighting. With this image you can see how it has effected the depth of field, as the bottle is completely in focus but the background is quite blurry. 

f/8
1/30sec
ISO-3200
This aperture setting was a bit lower than the image above, however as the shutter speed setting was quicker it let in some light but not for too long. ISO setting was also quite high but as we took the image indoors and the lighting wasn't too bright the image has come out with a neutral lighting. With this image you can see how it has effected the depth of field, as the bottle is completely in focus but the background is still quite blurry. 

f/13
1/13sec
ISO-3200
This aperture setting was a bit lower than the image above, however as the shutter speed setting was quicker it let in some light but not for too long. ISO setting was also quite high but as we took the image indoors and the lighting wasn't too bright the image has come out with a neutral lighting. With this image you can see how it has effected the depth of field, as the bottle is completely in focus with the background a little blurry but also becoming more in focus. 

f/22
1/4sec
ISO-3200
This aperture setting was a bit lower than the image above, however as the shutter speed setting was quicker it let in some light but not for too long. ISO setting was also quite high but as we took the image indoors and the lighting wasn't too bright the image has come out with a neutral lighting. With this image you can see how it has effected the depth of field, as now the bottle and the background is both in focus. 


We then, at a further distance away, tested the aperture settings again. This time we had a lower ISO to show how that also can effect the images.
f/5
1/4sec
ISO-100
This aperture setting was quite high, however as the shutter speed setting wasn't too high it let in some light but not for too long. The ISO setting was quite low but as we took the image indoors and the lighting wasn't too bright the image has come out with a slightly darker tone. With this image you can see how it has effected the depth of field, as the bottle is completely in focus but the background is quite blurry. 

f/8
1/2sec
ISO-100
This aperture setting was a bit lower than the image above, however as the shutter speed setting was quicker it let in some light but not for too long. The ISO setting was quite low but as we took the image indoors and the lighting wasn't too bright the image has come out with a slightly darker tone. With this image you can see how it has effected the depth of field, as the bottle is completely in focus but the background is still quite blurry. 

f/13
0.8sec
ISO-100
This aperture setting was a bit lower than the image above, however as the shutter speed setting was quicker it let in some light but not for too long. The ISO setting was quite low but as we took the image indoors and the lighting wasn't too bright the image has come out with a slightly darker tone. With this image you can see how it has effected the depth of field, as the bottle is completely in focus with the background a little blurry but also becoming more in focus. 

f/22
1.6sec
ISO-100
This aperture setting was a bit lower than the image above, however as the shutter speed setting was quicker it let in some light but not for too long. The ISO setting was quite low but as we took the image indoors and the lighting wasn't too bright the image has come out with a slightly darker tone. With this image you can see how it has effected the depth of field, as now the bottle and the background is both in focus. 

We then, at a even further distance away, tested the aperture settings again. This time we had a higher ISO to show how that also can effect the images.
f/5
1/20
ISO-400
This aperture setting was quite high, however as the shutter speed setting wasn't too high it let in some light but not for too long. The ISO setting was higher than at the last distance but as we took the image indoors and the lighting wasn't too bright the image has come out with a neutral lighting. With this image you can see how it has effected the depth of field, as the bottle is completely in focus but the background is quite blurry. 

f/8
1/20
ISO-400
This aperture setting was a bit lower than the image above, however as the shutter speed setting was the same it let in some light but not for too long. The ISO setting was higher than at the last distance but as we took the image indoors and the lighting wasn't too bright the image has come out with a neutral lighting. With this image you can see how it has effected the depth of field, as the bottle is completely in focus but the background is still quite blurry. 

f/13
1/10
ISO-400
This aperture setting was a bit lower than the image above, however as the shutter speed setting was quicker it let in some light but not for too long. The ISO setting was higher than at the last distance but as we took the image indoors and the lighting wasn't too bright the image has come out with a neutral lighting. With this image you can see how it has effected the depth of field, as the bottle is completely in focus with the background a little blurry but also becoming more in focus. 

f/22
1/2
ISO-400
This aperture setting was a bit lower than the image above, however as the shutter speed setting was quicker it let in some light but not for too long. The ISO setting was higher than at the last distance but as we took the image indoors and the lighting wasn't too bright the image has come out with a neutral lighting. With this image you can see how it has effected the depth of field, as now the bottle and the background is both in focus. 

As we were changing the distance to see the effect of the aperture settings, it makes it harder to see the effect that the change of ISO settings had on this task. However the lower the ISO, ie. 100, the darker the image, then the higher the ISO, i.e 3200, the brighter the image. The ISO can help make the image brighter, which is especially useful if you need to have a quick shutter speed and lower aperture. Sometimes the ISO can overexpose image or make the quality lower as it would be if the photographer had use a longer shutter speed. 

AO2- Shutter Speed (Workshop)



Shutter Speed 


Shutter speed is the time the shutter is open and therefore lets light in to the camera sensor, then after the shutter time is up it closes producing the image.  Shutter speed is  important because if you want to capture a high quality image of something moving, the faster the shutter speed the more likely you are to capture an image without motion blur. Longer shutter speeds tends to capture any movements within the image, however it also tends to be more sensitive to the light and bring out brighter images. 


If we used different lenses or focal lengths while using the shutter speed as our priority, it would effect the shutter speed because, for example, if we used a long focal length then if the camera shook it would be extremely noticeable because of how magnified it is. So to combat this, when using a longer focal length it is likely that you would be using a fast shutter speed. However if you used a short focal length then you would be able to use the longer shutter speeds and not contain any shakes or blur. 

Landscape photography is a specific application that would rely strongly on shutter speed, this is because shutter speeds can help create different sense of atmospheres within landscape photos. Also slow shutter speed can allow the landscape photographers to capture unique and dramatic images. These images are photos that use the shutter speed to create a sense of motion in the images, for example a waterfall in motion while the background is completely still. Another reason shutter speed can be important to landscape photographers is if they want to contain animals in their imagery, having a high shutter speed would allow them to get the image and also having the animal still without blur. 


Workshop Task -

For this workshop we were using the different shutter speeds on the camera to see what they would do to the image and to try and create different movements. The camera we used was a Sony DSLR-A290, with the exposure program on shutter priority. We had the camera set up on a tripod while we took the images we needed.

Freeze a moving object 
This image has f/4 f-stop
The exposure/shutter time was 1/100 of a second
ISO speed is ISO-100
No flash
When taking this image my aim was to freeze a moving object, therefore to do this I had to have the shutter speed on a faster setting, i.e. 1/100 of a second, so that it wouldn't blur as my subject(Colum) moved.  Where as if we had taken this image while having the shutter speed lower, for example on 3.2 seconds, the image would appear to have a blur where the movement is being captured. As I had the shutter speed on a quicker setting it means that the camera shutter wasn't open long enough for the camera to overexpose the image, therefore this image isn't too light. 

Allowing a moving object to blur
This image has f/20 F-stop
The exposure/shutter time of 3.2sec
ISO speed is ISO-100
No Flash
When taking this image my aim was to allow a moving object to blur, therefore to do this I had to have the shutter speed on a slower time, i.e. 3.2 seconds, so that it would blur as my subject moved during the time. Having the shutter open for a longer amount of time meant that the cameras sensor had more light reaching it, this is why the image is brighter than the image before. 

A picture with something moving and something frozen 
This image has f/22
Exposure/shutter time of 3.2sec
ISO speed is ISO-100
No flash
When taking this image my aim was to have a picture with something moving and something froze, this meant I had to have the shutter speed on a slower time yet again to allow the subject moving to blur. Having the shutter open for a longer amount of time meant that the cameras sensor had more light reaching it, this is why the image is brighter than the image at the beginning. 

Take a picture of something moving using a flash to freeze the subject
This image has f/4 F-stop 
Exposure/shutter time of 1/100sec
ISO speed is ISO-100
Separate Flash
When taking this image my aim was to take a picture of something moving while using a flash to help freeze the subject, for this I had to have the shutter speed on a quicker time to ensure the subject didn't blur. For this we used a separate flash, this helped ensure that all of his body was still and didn't contain motion blur. As I had the shutter speed on a quicker setting it means that the camera shutter wasn't open long enough for the camera to overexpose the image, therefore this image isn't too light. 

Attempted to pan a camera to keep up with the subject therefore creating an image where the subject is still and the background is blurred
This image has f/20 F-stop
The exposure/shutter time of 3.2sec
ISO speed is ISO-100
No Flash
This is one of my attempts at freezing an image while having a blurred background from panning the camera while taking the photo. However when we tried to create this image we realised how difficult it would be, there are multiple reasons why. Firstly, the subject wasn't moving completely straight across the background because as you walk people bounce up and down slightly. Therefore, as you can see in my image, my subject and background are both blurred. There is a slightly more noticeable shape of my subject, however not steady enough that my subject is still against the blurred background. Having the shutter open for a longer amount of time meant that the cameras sensor had more light reaching it, this is why the image is brighter than the image at the beginning. 


We then tried the effect of using the high shutter speed so it would take a quick shot and freeze my subject while he moves; this quick shot being of my subject, Colum, while he jumped up outside. 
These images have f/4.5 F-stop 
The exposure/shutter time of 1/800sec
ISO speed is ISO-100
No Flash
As we were outside I didn't need to use the flash to freeze the object or to get more light into my images as it was sunny.  As I had the shutter speed on a quicker setting it means that the camera shutter wasn't open long enough for the camera to overexpose the images, therefore this image isn't too light. 
This experiment was fun, however we had to make sure we have the shutter speed at the correct speed to capture the image without motion blur. We also had to ensure that we took the photo at the best time, this is so that we didn't miss the subject being in mid air.